We spent the whole day after my run at Kuhio Beach Park. Kim and I enjoy it there for many reasons. I knew I wanted to get out on the surfboard again. So once we exhausted all our other activities for the day, I went and got another hour long board rental. Sydney did not want to go today. That was cool with me. Reagan did for a little bit. So we went out and watched the surfers and shot some video. Its not the coolest ever but it gives you a sense of just hanging and relaxing and waiting for waves.
When it was time to come back in, we caught a decent wave that pushed us all the way back to shore. Reagan was done but I had time left. So I turned the board around and paddled back out. I was solo! All those excuses about having the kid with me, let me get closer to random surf instructors and I think I picked up what I needed. Got back to the big groups and sat. Tried to catch a few waves but they were coming in and going around me. Waves would literally be coming right for you and turn and angle away. It was cool but frustrating. Surfing is all right place at the right time. Probably some way to read the waves or know how they break but I have no clue on day 2.
Finally I saw a good one and it was staying with me so I paddled and caught it. My board “stuck” — I don’t know if that’s the word they use — but it is like you feel that the board is being pushed by the wave as if it latched on as opposed to just having the wave pass under it. So I stood up. And there I was — surfing. Cool. Road for what was probably only seconds before the wave crapped out and I was just standing on the board. Had a decent ride but nothing major. Paddled back out.
Waited for better waves but not much came. My time was up so I paddled in catching what I could. Nothing really better than that first big one. Hit some white water waves and kept getting tossed off. Those are no good.
Saw this cool surf map later in the evening that shows every beach on the island and the names of the surfing spots. Tells you what each spot is known for, how the waves break, etc. Cool stuff. Kind wanted to buy it but then Kim asked me about how much I will need this based on all the surfing I have ever done and will do here in the future. I didn’t appreciate the comment but it saved me $10.
Given the density of surf spots in Waikiki, you could flip it over for more details on this area. The place I was in today has about 3 different distinct areas. I don’t know which I was in but I am going to say its the Canoes based on this. So there.
Kinda bummed I never tried this in Maui a few years ago but there wasn’t such a cluster of people and rentals and opportunity. Plus, this area seems so safe. You can see the bottom for god sake’s. Plus, if a shark gets near, I could likely see him and then paddle into the cluster and some other newbie could take the fall. Just sayin’.